When shade is preferred to air conditioner - From Aca Romanic's log cabin to elite Devetka restaurant in Belgrade

"My dear, you will now drink something on a house until your roast is done." This is what Aleksija Romanic, also known as Aca Devetka (Aca the Nine), used to say, rubbing his palms together, to every guest entering his famous restaurant Devetka in Kosutnjak, Belgrade.

Although it has changed both look and owner in the meantime, this restaurant is still called after his founder who was a tall and big man happy to see any guest. Zarko Ratkovic, director general of the catering group Visnjica, part of which is this restaurant today, speaks for eKapija about the life of Devetka, its founder and revelries in the forest of Kosutnjak.

Terminus as turning point

In the early 1960's, Aleksija Aca Romanic, a restaurant keeper born in Knin and living in Belgrade, ran a small tavern in Dorcol, near the tram terminus of the line no. 9. In that small log cabin he used to prepare lamb roast. At that time, there was a small house serving as a railway station in Pionirski Grad, in the heart of Kosutnjak.

In order to expand his business, Aleksija Aca Romanic rented that small house in Kosutnjak and named it Devetka. That is how the restaurant got the name after the tram line whose route has significantly changed since then.

- In memory of the famous restaurant keeper and great host, that restaurant still carries the same name - Ratkovic says for our web portal.

Visnjica took over Devetka restaurant in 1965, appointing its founder Aca Devetka as the manager.

The restaurant got a brand new look after the adaptation that took place in 2007 and 2008.

- It was adaptation only on paper. Devetka was, actually, torn to the ground and a completely new facility was built. The design was done by the famous Serbian architect Dejan Babovic. Our wish was to turn it into an old city house from the early 1930's, which would feature the elements of Serbian architecture and the interior decorated with stone and wood.

By the way, this restaurant won the title of the best architectural solution in Belgrade in 2008, sharing that award with Airport City and Zira hotel.

For those who prefer shade to air conditioner

Ratkovic remembers the founder and says he was very hospitable and had a big heart.

Hospitality and open-heartedness are still the light motives of the service at Devetka. This restaurant is not in the city outskirts any more. People at Visnjica say it is good that Kosutnjak remains a green oasis although residential and business complexes are being developed in its vicinity.

The restaurant comprises three sections - a fireplace room (for up to 40 people), with a fireplace and fire representing a symbol of life, a restaurant with 80-90 seats, which can be divided into smaller units if needed, and the third section is a banquet hall where various celebrations and cocktail parties can be organized for up to 600 people.

The guests say that it is nice to watch snowflakes while sitting next to the fireplace. But they also say that it is equally good in summer when Devetka gathers all those who prefer shade to air conditioner. The centennial forest of Kosutnjak is still one of the rare shelters for the citizens of Belgrade who seek a break from the city life.

Jelena Djelic